Day 13
Slovenia to Croatia and the longest train journey of the trip so far. Our first train of the day is just after 7, so I'm up before 6 to make sure everything is back in my trusty backpack and to get ready for the next leg of the journey. Outside the sky is a washed out grey and the damp pavement suggests that it rained over night. I silently pray that the rain and cooler weather will follow us to Croatia.
We leave the hostel at half 6 and begin the walk to the train station. It may be early, but there are already a few locals out and about, walking their dogs and tending their gardens. They seem to be true believers of Carpe Diem out here. I'm not normally an early riser, but being out at this hour, whilst it's tranquil and calm amongst the pine trees and wooden houses, is kind of magical. I make a note to try and do this more at home, to get out earlier and see more.
The little train station is in a clearing in between pine trees, on top of the hill with the lake down below. I take one last look at the lake, which still looks impressive, though albeit less inviting without the sun's glorious rays beaming down on it. Like most train stations in Slovenia, this one is rather small with no proper platforms. We literally have to cross the tracks to get onto our first train, which takes us 15 minutes up the road to Jesenice,and our first connection. At this time in the UK the trains would be filled with commuters, but here there are just a smattering of locals and other sleepy travellers.
Our second train takes us back to the capitol, Ljubljana, where, according to the holy grail for travellers ( the interrailing train timetable) we have a 45 minute transfer time, so we treat ourselves to a McDonald's breakfast. Not only is it dirt cheap over here ( £2.30 for two sausage and egg McMuffins and a cappuccino), but my sausage and egg McMuffins taste SO much nicer than the British ones. They have herbs and spices in them and everything. And they do freshly squeezed orange juice over here. We are in heaven right now, and spend a good ten minutes foodgasming on the platform of the station.
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| McLovin it. |
Our next train is a two and a half hour journey, so we're both planning on getting some sleep. We're just getting comfortable, when around around a hundred excited scouts, obviously on the way to camp, get on. Well bollocks to that plan.
We make our next connection in the nick of time, and start to head over the Slovene-Croatian border. So far there's little difference, apart from the fact that Croatian train stations have station guards in red and white chequered caps that match the Croatian flag. Just like Slovenia though most stations are sheds in the arse end of nowhere.
An hour later and we reach Karlovac, where have a three hour stopover. The hard bit of the journey is done, as from here it's just one train for the last 5 hours of the trip. We need to exchange our euros, as Croatia has its own currency, Kuna, which we soon discover, after buying train reservations for a mere 8 Kuna (80p) is dirt cheap. We ask in a nearby petrol station about an ATM, and they tell us that there are some in a shopping centre that's 1.8 Kilometres away, yet we can see it out of he window. If there's one thing we've learnt in the last week or so is that metres and kilometres are extremely arbitrary units in mainland Europe. The walk takes us less than 5 minutes.
I feel rather flash taking out 1000 Kuna out at the cash machine, even if it's only £100. It seems that the entirety of the town's cash machines are here. We have time to burn so we decide to go on a a shopping spree in the huge interspar. When we realised how ridiculously cheap everything is the whole thing becomes like supermarket sweep. We managed to buy chicken and chips for 80p and a 2 litre bottle of radler for £1.50.
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| Backpacking essentials |
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| How much?!? |
Outside the train station, which FYI isn't a shed in a field in the arse end of nowhere which is rare in Croatia, the local firemen are extinguishing a fire in a bin. Two of the men are sitting on a wall whilst they leave their colleague to deal with it. It's all going on in Karlovac.
We still have ages until our next train, so we camp out in the train station. My right foot is still swollen like a pregnant women's, so I lie on the floor and elevate it on our rucksacks, receiving some odd glances from the few other travellers in the station.
Just before four our last train of the day arrives. By now we've been travelling for nine hours. I'm desperate for a nap.
By the time we reach the 12 hour mark we reach the limit and become delirious, laughing at anything and everything. We schedule in a dinner made out of the meagre rations left in our food bag. I have two packs of crackers and a kit kat chunky. My insides feel disgusting. And I'm slowly beginning to really hate crackers.
Soon enough it's pitch black outside, and we don't even have the landscape to gaze at to help lift the boredom. The train seems to be stopping every 10 seconds, and it seems as if this journey is never going to end. Izzie asks the conductor what's going on, and even she hasn't a clue. We were warned about how rubbish Croatian trains were by other travellers. It's only now that we're starting to believe the rumours.
After what turns into a 16 hour journey, we finally arrive at the end of line, Split. It may be almost 10 o clock in the evening, but the air is still sticky with humidity, and I find myself sweating within minutes. As we wait outside the station for our lift to the hostel, I start to soak up the lively atmosphere of the place. It may be bedtime for a weary traveller like me, but for most people here the night is just getting started. I can't wait to explore in the morning.
Our home whilst in Split is The Marine Hostel Renalto, a tiny little hostel, right by the marina. As we get into the dorm the cool air conditioning blasts my face and I'm in heaven. Here the beds are little pods with curtains, so you have your own privacy. I collapse onto the comfiest bed and the nicest pillow I've had for the whole trip and sink into a well deserved sleep.
Day 14
Our first full day in Croatia.We treat ourselves to a lie in and spend what little remains of the morning exploring the city centre. The centre of Split is based down by the harbour, in and around Diocletian's Palace - an ancient Roman Palace that is now a UNESCO World Heritage site and the city's main shopping area. Bakeries, restaurants and even supermarkets are built into the ancient stone walls and the open air areas are lined with market stalls selling everything from bikinis and flip flops to little sachets filled with Croatian Lavender.
By around two it's unbearably hot and we can't resist the call of the ocean any longer. We go to a beach a minute or so away from our hostel, which seems to be where the locals go. Surprisingly it is far less busy than when we went past this morning. It seems that Croatians come earlier or later in the day to escape the ferocity of the heat. The first few laps of water on my feet are ice cold, but when I finally get the balls to put my shoulders under I am blessed with cool refreshment. The thick layer of sweat and grime on my body is washed off in an instant, and I swim and splash around happy as Larry, glad to feel cool and clean again. The water is a gorgeous blue-green and I feel like I am living in a picture from a travel brochure. Around us locals play a game with a small ball which involves trying to keep it in the air for as long as possible. I look on amusedly as people of all ages, shapes and sizes frollock around in the water, desperately trying to keep the ball in the air with failed efforts ending up with a fall head first into the water. I later find out from a magazine that it is called Picigin and is unique to Split.
For dinner we eat at one of the restaurants around the marina. Eating out is reasonably cheap here, we both manage to get a pizza for under a fiver. Annoyingly the though the menu has a typo and Izzie unknowingly orders a pizza with mushrooms instead of ham. The waiter apologises, takes the pizza back and returns with the same pizza with a few strips of ham on it, which would be fine if Izzie actually liked mushrooms. We don't leave a tip.
As the sun begins to go down the palace begins to light up and locals and travellers descend onto the streets of the centre to muse round the shops and markets, to sip drinks and to munch on ice cream. We find a really cool bohemian clothes shop and spend a good hour trying on different genie pants, cool dresses and hippy tops, before both leaving with something. Croatia has great style, it would be rude not to take some of it for ourselves. The marina has a totally different atmosphere in the evening as it does in the day and under the glows of pink and orange from the sunset I see the centre in a totally different light; both metaphorically and literally.
Day 15
Another early start, as today we're off to Plitvice Lakes, another of Croatia's Natural Heritage sites, which is a good 4 hour drive away. On the coach ride there we are treated to incredible views of both the Mediterranean and European climate and landscape that Croatia possesses and interesting facts about the country from our cheerful tour guides. My respect and intrigue of this ever surprising country begins to blossom.
The lakes take my breath away. Everywhere I look I see turquoise blue water which is incredibly bright, but also incredibly clear. The landscape looks that of somewhere like Canada, not a tiny country in eastern Europe that didn't exist 25 years ago. I am completely blown away by the beauty of the place and realise how much I still have to explore in my home continent. There is so much diversity here in terms of cultures and landscape, there is no need to jet off to Asia or America any time soon. There is so much I need to see that is a mere Easyjet flight away. I make a mental note to explore as many European countries as I can before I die. There is so much going on here.
There is only one thing that is underwhelming about this place, and that is the so-called "Big Waterfall". It doesn't really live up to its name. We were expecting huge gushes of water, but it's more like trickles. Izzie is not impressed.
We get back to the hostel just before nine in the evening, but despite our long day we feel surprisingly recharged after a nap on the coach. We take to the beach with our huge bottle of radler and a few mugs from the hostel kitchen in tow and go for a paddle under the cover of darkness. The water is too tempting and I soon go for a full swim. It's so warm and humid that even though I sit in just a towel, dripping wet for over an hour with no sun to dry me I don't shiver once. We sip on our radler and chat about anything and everything. This is a moment worth treasuring. It's not wild or exciting, but purely living and enjoying the moment. After all I could never do this at home.
Day 16
Our last day in Split and the official halfway mark of the trip. We spend it similarly to our first here, taking full advantage of our last day near a beach. I'm really going to miss Croatia. It's gorgeous here, not only the perfect place to lie on the beach, but it's rich in culture and heritage. I know this won't be my last time here. I wan't to come back and explore many of the islands dotted around its coastline. There are plenty more adventures to be had in Croatia.
There seems to be a children's talent contest on by the harbour tonight, as part of "The Colours of Split festival". Children of all ages lip sync to Croatian pop songs, as proud parents watch. The cutest performance is from a local dance school where several 5-6 year olds, dressed up as flowers and fairies, dance around an older girl singing, using any opportunity to wave excitedly to the crowd below.
Day 17
Bye Bye Split. Today we head to the country's capitol, Zagreb, for an overnight stop. The train journey is a good six hours, yet the children opposite don't play up once. I'm impressed, not only by their behaviour, but by the amazing picnic the whole family has. Fresh berries, bread, cheese, cucumber and carrots all come out a Mary Poppins bag of food and for once I'm really craving vegetables. I have carrot envy. An hour in I've already eaten my sandwich and I'm still hungry. I refuse to eat those damn crackers.
We arrive in Zagreb in the early afternoon. After finally working out what hostel we're staying at (we forgot) we check in, freshen up and head back up. Zagreb has plenty of museums and we both fancy doing different things so we split up for a few hours for some solo travel time. I decide to visit The Museum of Broken Relationships in the capitol's old town. After seeing part of the exhibition at the South Bank Centre's festival of love last year I was fascinated by it and couldn't resist a visit whilst in the capitol. The collection is made up of donations by visitors from all over the world, who give a relic of an old failed relationship with the object's story to the museum for them to display. There are some incredible stories here, from the tear-inducing to the downright hilarious. I come away totally inspired and reflective on my own failed relationships.
When we reunite. Izzie tells me of a festival that is starting in the centre and we go and watch. It is a showcase of traditional performances of song and dance from tribes that have origins in Croatia. We watch dances and military displays by people from Kurdishan, and traditional tribes from Germany, Spain, and Macedonia.
Croatia has opened my eyes to a whole new culture and has been the most surprising of the countries so far. But tomorrow we head to my favourite country in the whole world and the place I wish to someday call home: Austria. A new week is about to start, and two new countries and even more adventures.
Find out about our time in Austria and Poland in Part 4
By around two it's unbearably hot and we can't resist the call of the ocean any longer. We go to a beach a minute or so away from our hostel, which seems to be where the locals go. Surprisingly it is far less busy than when we went past this morning. It seems that Croatians come earlier or later in the day to escape the ferocity of the heat. The first few laps of water on my feet are ice cold, but when I finally get the balls to put my shoulders under I am blessed with cool refreshment. The thick layer of sweat and grime on my body is washed off in an instant, and I swim and splash around happy as Larry, glad to feel cool and clean again. The water is a gorgeous blue-green and I feel like I am living in a picture from a travel brochure. Around us locals play a game with a small ball which involves trying to keep it in the air for as long as possible. I look on amusedly as people of all ages, shapes and sizes frollock around in the water, desperately trying to keep the ball in the air with failed efforts ending up with a fall head first into the water. I later find out from a magazine that it is called Picigin and is unique to Split.
For dinner we eat at one of the restaurants around the marina. Eating out is reasonably cheap here, we both manage to get a pizza for under a fiver. Annoyingly the though the menu has a typo and Izzie unknowingly orders a pizza with mushrooms instead of ham. The waiter apologises, takes the pizza back and returns with the same pizza with a few strips of ham on it, which would be fine if Izzie actually liked mushrooms. We don't leave a tip.
As the sun begins to go down the palace begins to light up and locals and travellers descend onto the streets of the centre to muse round the shops and markets, to sip drinks and to munch on ice cream. We find a really cool bohemian clothes shop and spend a good hour trying on different genie pants, cool dresses and hippy tops, before both leaving with something. Croatia has great style, it would be rude not to take some of it for ourselves. The marina has a totally different atmosphere in the evening as it does in the day and under the glows of pink and orange from the sunset I see the centre in a totally different light; both metaphorically and literally.
Day 15
Another early start, as today we're off to Plitvice Lakes, another of Croatia's Natural Heritage sites, which is a good 4 hour drive away. On the coach ride there we are treated to incredible views of both the Mediterranean and European climate and landscape that Croatia possesses and interesting facts about the country from our cheerful tour guides. My respect and intrigue of this ever surprising country begins to blossom.
The lakes take my breath away. Everywhere I look I see turquoise blue water which is incredibly bright, but also incredibly clear. The landscape looks that of somewhere like Canada, not a tiny country in eastern Europe that didn't exist 25 years ago. I am completely blown away by the beauty of the place and realise how much I still have to explore in my home continent. There is so much diversity here in terms of cultures and landscape, there is no need to jet off to Asia or America any time soon. There is so much I need to see that is a mere Easyjet flight away. I make a mental note to explore as many European countries as I can before I die. There is so much going on here.
There is only one thing that is underwhelming about this place, and that is the so-called "Big Waterfall". It doesn't really live up to its name. We were expecting huge gushes of water, but it's more like trickles. Izzie is not impressed.
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| Call that a waterfall? |
Day 16
Our last day in Split and the official halfway mark of the trip. We spend it similarly to our first here, taking full advantage of our last day near a beach. I'm really going to miss Croatia. It's gorgeous here, not only the perfect place to lie on the beach, but it's rich in culture and heritage. I know this won't be my last time here. I wan't to come back and explore many of the islands dotted around its coastline. There are plenty more adventures to be had in Croatia.
There seems to be a children's talent contest on by the harbour tonight, as part of "The Colours of Split festival". Children of all ages lip sync to Croatian pop songs, as proud parents watch. The cutest performance is from a local dance school where several 5-6 year olds, dressed up as flowers and fairies, dance around an older girl singing, using any opportunity to wave excitedly to the crowd below.
Day 17
Bye Bye Split. Today we head to the country's capitol, Zagreb, for an overnight stop. The train journey is a good six hours, yet the children opposite don't play up once. I'm impressed, not only by their behaviour, but by the amazing picnic the whole family has. Fresh berries, bread, cheese, cucumber and carrots all come out a Mary Poppins bag of food and for once I'm really craving vegetables. I have carrot envy. An hour in I've already eaten my sandwich and I'm still hungry. I refuse to eat those damn crackers.
We arrive in Zagreb in the early afternoon. After finally working out what hostel we're staying at (we forgot) we check in, freshen up and head back up. Zagreb has plenty of museums and we both fancy doing different things so we split up for a few hours for some solo travel time. I decide to visit The Museum of Broken Relationships in the capitol's old town. After seeing part of the exhibition at the South Bank Centre's festival of love last year I was fascinated by it and couldn't resist a visit whilst in the capitol. The collection is made up of donations by visitors from all over the world, who give a relic of an old failed relationship with the object's story to the museum for them to display. There are some incredible stories here, from the tear-inducing to the downright hilarious. I come away totally inspired and reflective on my own failed relationships.
When we reunite. Izzie tells me of a festival that is starting in the centre and we go and watch. It is a showcase of traditional performances of song and dance from tribes that have origins in Croatia. We watch dances and military displays by people from Kurdishan, and traditional tribes from Germany, Spain, and Macedonia.
Croatia has opened my eyes to a whole new culture and has been the most surprising of the countries so far. But tomorrow we head to my favourite country in the whole world and the place I wish to someday call home: Austria. A new week is about to start, and two new countries and even more adventures.
Find out about our time in Austria and Poland in Part 4
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